Eating air in Matt Orlando and Will Goldfarb’s new eco-restaurant in Dempsey

The spacious lifestyle concept scores high on lofty ideals, but less so with the food itself

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Jaime Ee

Published Thu, Feb 22, 2024 · 11:11 PM

AIR's dining room is furnished with tables and chairs made of recycled wood. PHOTO: AIR
AIR carves out its own Little Bali in the Dempsey. PHOTO: AIR
The fermented cassava bread is dense and chewy, served with mushroom butter. PHOTO: AIR
Earthy jackfruit hummus served with raw vegetables. PHOTO:JAIME EE/BT
Grilled squid salad with vegetables in a pesto-like dressing. PHOTO:JAIME EE/BT
Lion's mane mushroom is seared and served with sweetcorn sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE/BT
Grilled duck is garnished with a roselle garnish. PHOTO: AIR
Papaya panna cotta, papaya skin granite and crunchy papaya seeds make this dessert one of the highlights. PHOTO: AIR
AIR's reincarnated chocolate is a sticky brownie-like cake. PHOTO: AIR

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NEW RESTAURANT AIR CCCC 25B Dempsey Road Singapore 249918 Tel: 8228-1528 Open for dinner only Wed to Sun: 5.30 pm to 11 pm

FROM a chronic food-waster’s point of view, AIR is a restaurant we all need. It’s a whopping 40,000 sq ft reminder of why we should finish all our food and not throw stuff out on a whim. Otherwise, its chefs might take all those leftover scraps, put them on the menu and feed it to you.

We don’t mean excess lasagne, but rather the banana peels, cocoa husks and fish bones that star in this sprawling eco-forward dining space that’s carved out its own Little Bali in Dempsey. This is where two stalwarts of sustainability – Matt Orlando and Will Goldfarb – grind, ferment and resuscitate kitchen detritus into a trendy lifestyle statement.

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