67 on Scotts doubles as restaurant and event space

NEW RESTAURANT

67 on Scotts #01-04/05 Shaw Centre 1 Scotts Road Singapore 228208 Tel: 9180 3601 Open daily: 8.30 am to 12 am

67 ON Scotts isn’t a restaurant – it’s a car showroom with food. But one that knows you can’t afford its merchandise, so it makes you pay for your own refreshments.

It’s not our fault. We didn’t realise we were party gatecrashers until we saw trays of champagne, canapes and mini burgers float past our table without stopping.

Before that, we thought we were just regular diners at the latest eatery in town – which also happens to rent its space to luxury brands to showcase their wares. 

In this case, they’re supercars, which we idly admired while slurping fresh oysters (market price) and tearing into sourdough bread (S$8), oblivious to the random potential buyers wandering about.

But when we started on our scallop and ocean trout tartare (S$28), someone made a speech. Then someone else. The LED screen flashed more aggressively. The music got louder and louder. We could barely make out our own conversation, much less hear our laksa bouillabaisse utter: “Help me.”

As a business concept, 67 on Scotts works. It taps private events for the bulk of its business, and operates as a regular restaurant when there’s nothing on. Where it gets bipolar is when it tries to do both at the same time. 

It could easily open up its empty second level for paying diners to eat in peace. But maybe their cleaners charge according to floor area – so they’d rather keep it empty and stick us in an obscure corner downstairs, hoping no one at the party notices. 

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They should just close public bookings on event days. But if they don’t, the onus is on you to check first before you go. 

Otherwise, this is a pleasant place for a casual bite. Its glass-walled facade and prominent street-facing orientation give it a bright airiness – a place to see and be seen, except by the boss who didn’t give you permission to work from home. 

67 on Scotts is an offshoot of the private wine club 67 Pall Mall that’s also in the building. So expect an extensive wine list, where prices start at as low as S$12 for an Italian white, or even S$10 as part of a lunch special. 

The menu also has the stamp of its executive chef Francois Mermilliod – formerly of Bar-A-Thym – with his signature potato epoisses gratin making a cameo. The idea is to ply you with food and wine so you’re inspired to join the club itself – where no mini burger will dare to bypass you ever again.

Until such time, pick from a compact list of salads, starters and mains with a vague Mediterranean accent. The cooking is fundamentally sound, but nothing to make the chefs break a sweat. And you won’t quibble about the portions, which are shareable if you like variety.

Irish oysters at S$7 a pop are medium-sized, fresh and briny. The house sourdough features thick brown and white slabs with a satisfying chew. 

Chopped raw scallop and ocean trout is a people pleaser, tossed in mild horseradish cream and layered with avocado. Grilled barramundi (S$38) is a hefty fillet with properly seared skin, but any hopes of calorie control are dashed by the risotto cooked in a rich, thick lobster emulsion.

A 250-gram Angus beef ribeye is sensibly priced at S$48, commendably charred and medium-rare tender within, served with thick fries and salad. Orecchiette pasta (S$36) is a kitchen pantry staple – tossed with fennel sausage and a big blob of burrata to cover any shortcomings.

Laksa bouillabaisse (S$38) is your usual fusion cliche – seafood with a dramatic pour-over of spicy gravy. And the potato epoisses (S$14) – laden with potato, cream and funky cheese – will take up permanent residency in your gut for a week.

Dessert is perfunctory. We never met an Eton mess (S$16) we like – this sickeningly sweet mix of crunchy meringue, cream, cherries and diabetes confirms it. Stick with the fail-safe molten Valrhona chocolate tart and ice cream (S$16).

Remember that 67 on Scotts is primarily a function space. Don’t think of it in restaurant adjectives like warm, inviting, exciting. It’s convenient, right-priced and efficient. Perfect for product launches, seminars and business gatherings. But if it’s holding one on the very day you plan to dine there, make sure you’re invited, too.

Rating: 6.5